You can find our list of retailer in France and worldwide by clicking on the “Find a retailer” button, in the top right corner of the page.
See our “saltwater chlorination” section.
Temperature, although it does not decrease the chlorine level, can reduce its effectiveness. UV (sunshine) Attendance Pollution brought by the wind (dead leaves, waste…) Misaligned discharge nozzle Dirty filter and pre-filter Filtration time
Yes, electrolysers can be installed on any existing or new pool, regardless of the lining. IMPORTANT: If your installation has metal pipes, the installation of an electrolyser is not recommended.
To produce chlorine, the chlorinator requires salt. We recommend 5 kg of salt per m3 of water for a Normal Salt mode (NS), 2,5kg per m3 for a Low Salt mode (LS) and 1,5kg per m3 for Ultra Low Salt mode (ULS). In reality, the chlorinator does not consume salt since the chlorine produced recombines into salt under the action of UV light. All you will have to do is add salt once a year, at the beginning of the season. There is always a small loss of salt due to filter washing, splashes and leaks from the pool.
Spread the salt around the edge of the swimming pool and put the filtration system into operation. Do not put the chlorinator on until all the salt has been dissolved (1 to 24 hours depending on the temperature of the water).
Under normal conditions, the electrolyser exempts you from the use of chlorine and any other chemical disinfectant. However, it may be useful to perform a treatment following extreme conditions such as a storm or excessive use.
Our cells are compatible with all models made after 1992. Please consult your local retailer or the list of our retailers.
Your electrolyser must be connected to the filter box. The operating time of your unit is therefore equal to the filtration time. See the section “the importance of filtration“.
Yes, you can download a user manual for your device. To do so, go to the bottom of your product page.
You can use standard quality salt. Special pool salt compacted into tablets containing stabiliser is recommended. A sample of pool salt is offered with our chlorinators. Special pool salt extends the life of the cell. Its anti-scale and anti-corrosion properties make it easy to maintain and preserve the metal parts of your appliance. Please note that the stabiliser level in your pool should not be too high (below 50 ppm).
A chlorinator consumes only a very small amount of current. Thus for a 100 m3 pool, the annual electricity consumption will be between 150 and 200 W.
See “the importance of filtration“.
Use our salt calculator to determine the best device for your pool.
Electrolysis is healthy and respectful of the environment, it brings you :
– Tranquility: your pool is disinfected.
– Safety: no chemical disinfectants to handle, store or buy
– Comfort: clean, healthy and crystal-clear water
– Health and well-being: Therapeutic, salt water does not irritate the eyes or dry out the skin.
You will need to check the chlorine level, “terminal tightness” and pH of the water weekly using your usual test kit. It is also advisable to make sure that the cell does not become covered with scale. The level of free chlorine in the pool should be maintained between 0.8 and 1.2 ppm. The pH must be stabilized between 7 and 7.2. The level of stabilizer and the TH (water hardness) should be checked twice a year.
No. Pool Technologie chlorinators are compatible with all swimming pools and all linings. Only excess chlorine levels (> 2.5 ppm) and/or a low pH will promote oxidation and deterioration of the pool lining; thus the need for regular testing. However, in the case of old installations using metal piping, the installation of a chlorinator is not recommended.
Your chlorinator produces chlorine which is a powerful disinfectant. Therefore, you will use less chemical products. However, whichever system you use the pH must be kept at between 7 and 7.2. A balanced pH reinforces the effectiveness of the disinfectant and improves water quality. The pH may automatically be controlled using automatic pH regulation.
Automatic pH regulation will guarantee quality water and frees you from the constraints of manual testing and adjustments. It also optimizes the effectiveness of the disinfectant, in addition to producing non-irritating and non-scaling water.
Green water indicates the presence of algae. The causes can be multiple:
Insufficient water circulation: check the filtration time.
Insufficient chlorine production: check the production rate, the condition of the cell, the salinity of the water (5 kg/m3) and the proper operation of your chlorinator.
An unbalanced pH: stabilize it between 7 and 7.2
Stabilizer level: a stabilizer level higher than 50 ppm will block the effect of the disinfectant produced by the chlorinator.
Pool attendance: the greater the attendance, the greater the demand for chlorine. Consult the calculator for chlorine demand.
Limescale (TH) rate too high.
Water temperature: a high temperature will require an increase in the filtration time and consequently the electrolyser’s operating time. See filtration time.
Before turning green, swimming pool water will become cloudy or milky. See the answers to “Why is the water in my swimming pool green ?”
Check salt level, pH, chlorine level and TAC.
In most cases, increasing the production of your device will be enough. In case of extreme use, it may be useful to switch your unit to 24/24 filtration the day before and to perform an additional treatment such as chlor-shock.
During winter and when the temperature drops below 15°, you should turn off your chlorinator. If necessary, remember to clean the electrolysis cell. In the case of a pH regulation and with a total stop of filtration :
Remove the pH sensor and keep it in its original bottle filled with tap water.
Rinse the entire pH corrector circuit with clean water.
In the presence of a peristaltic pump, replace the pump hose and the non-return valve each season. Also, see also our wintering section.
Before putting your chlorinator back into operation, make sure that the water temperature is above 15 °C and the salt content is above 2.5 kg per cubic meter, the recommended value being 5 kg. The pool water must be clear, free of algae and sediment, and its TAC, TH and pH levels must be balanced (between 7.0 and 7.2 for pH). Clean the filters and prefilters and use them according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Finally, make sure that the stabilizer level is less than 50 ppm and the free chlorine level in the pool is greater than or equal to 1 ppm.
The lifespan of the cell will be 10,000 hours on average. The TH (water hardness), the salt, chlorine and stabilizer levels as well as the pH are the parameters to be controlled in order to extend the lifespan of the cell.
The units are guaranteed for 2 years for parts and labor return to factory, but some consumables are only guaranteed for one year. Refer to your user manual and/or warranty area. To make use of the warranty, you can contact your retailer, knowing that in all cases, your purchase invoice will be requested. For more information, please consult the warranty section.
We advise you to check the cell when preparing the pool for winter or at the end of winter.
In most cases, the self-cleaning of the cell by polarity reversal prevents scale deposits. However, in the case of particularly hard water, manual cleaning of the cell may be necessary from time to time. Proceed as follows:
Switch off the unit and the filtration; close the isolation valves of the cell. Unscrew the electrical connections of the cell.
Unscrew the union nuts of the cell. Remove the cell and check the electrodes for scale. To descale the cell, wear gloves, goggles, a protective apron, a basin that can contain the cell horizontally, attention connections out of water.
Fill the basin with an acid ph corrector or a solution of diluted hydrochloric acid to the extent of 1 volume of acid for 4 volumes of water, Caution, always add acid to water and never the other way around.
Leave the cell to soak until the limescale disappears completely (from 3 to 24 hours depending on the scaling). After total disappearance of the limestone, rinse and reassemble the cell.
See our advice by clicking here
All of the chlorinators have a self-cleaning function using polarity reversal. Most of them also allow adjusting the polarity reversal time. Depending on the hardness of your water, the frequency of polarity reversal may be adjusted to avoid tedious cleaning.
The chlorinator produces chlorine and not salt. The salt must be added directly to the swimming pool.
Salt level will fall if water is lost through leaking, cleaning the filters or by splashing.
The reasons can be multiple. Check that :
The unit is turned on
The water temperature is higher than 15°.
The salt rate is more than 2.5 kg per cubic meter.
The filtration time is sufficient (the operating time of the unit is equal to the filtration time)
The cell is not scaled
Nozzles are pointing downwards
The pods are not oxidized
In addition, your chlorine measurements may be distorted by a complete lack of stabilizer in your pool water, or by treatment with active oxygen.
If your device is equipped with a temperature sensor, check that it is working properly. If the difference is small, adjust the temperature.
I have algae in my swimming pool even though the equipment is working well, chlorine levels are normal and pH is between 7 and 7.2.
The automatic pH control ensures good water quality and frees you from the constraints of manual controls and adjustments. It also optimises the effectiveness of the disinfectant and provides non-irritating, non-scaling water. Green water indicates the presence of algae. The causes can be multiple:
Insufficient water circulation: check the filtration time
Insufficient chlorine production: check the production rate, the state of the cell, the salinity of the water (5 kg/m3) and the proper functioning of your chlorinator.
An unbalanced pH: stabilise it between 7 and 7.2
The level of stabiliser: a stabiliser level higher than 50 ppm will block the effect of the disinfectant produced by the chlorinator.
Pool frequency: the more frequent the pool, the greater the demand for chlorine. Consult the dedicated calculator for the chlorine demand.
Chalk content (TH) too high
Water temperature: a high temperature will require an increase in filtration time and consequently the operating time of the chlorinator. See filtration time.
Small white platelets close to the backflow are most likely to be particles of scale released during the self-cleaning polarity reversal of the chlorination cell. If the deposit is evenly distributed over the pool floor then this is most likely due to hard water rain. Proceed as follows: Treat using a flocculent, Check the operation of the swimming pool filter, ensure that the swimming pool water is correctly balanced (pH, TH, alkalinity). See the water balance section.
I added 500 kg of salt to my 50 cubic metre swimming pool and the controller tells me that there is not enough salt or too much salt.
Adjust the salt sensor, or replace it if it is no longer working. Our devices operate from 0.5kg per m3 (Ultra Low Salt), 1,5kg per m3 (Low Salt) to 2,5kg per m3 (Normal Salt) with no high limit.
Following a storm: manually adjust the pH of the pool using pH+. Also remember to measure the TAC rate, it should be between 80 and 120 mg/L.
Check the TAC and adjust it if necessary. Beware of residual currents from other equipment. They can distort the value. First perform the test in a glass of pool water.
Calibrate the pH probe by referring to the “pH probe adjustment” menu in the application or with your user manual. Beware of residual currents, however, first carry out the test in a glass of water in the pool.
Check the TAC as well as the condition of the pH probe and calibrate it if necessary.
Your equipment must produce enough chlorine to disinfect the swimming pool and keep it disinfecting. The needs of your swimming pool will vary according to different factors:
The level of sunshine,
The water supply.
This is why the chlorine levels should be tested every week using the analysis kit. Adjust your equipment so that the chlorine levels remain between 0.8 and 1.2 ppm.
Repeat the calibration operation. If the problem persists, then change the probe.
The automatic cover option, available on a number of models, will adjust the production levels of disinfectant according to the position of the cover. The “Choose your equipment” menu will help you to choose the most suitable equipment for your swimming pool.
Your equipment is fitted with a real filtration time detection system and has detected that filtration time is insufficient. Adjust the filtration time according to the temperature.
Make sure that the box is properly connected, then check that the valves are open, the salt level and the temperature. If the salt level is correct and the unit displays 0 , replace the salt and temperature sensor.
Measure the pH levels in the swimming pool using the analysis kit. Check your measured value against that displayed by the controller. If there is a considerable distance, calibrate the pH probe to ensure that it is working.
Yes, the cell uses polarity reversal for self-cleaning.
When preparing the swimming pool for winter time (emptying or stopping filtration), carry out the following operations: Remove the pH probe and store it in its protection filled with tap water, Every season, replace the hoses between the peristaltic pump and the check valves. The maintenance kit (Ref.KIT05MAINQUA) or (Ref. KIT02MAINMTP) includes all of the required elements for annual operations.
Our devices are constantly being improved. For many models, we offer software updates through the e-Pool application. Depending on the device, you can activate your Plug and Play Kit and upgrade your salt/pH combination to salt/pH/ORP. For more information, please contact your professional, who will be able to advise you.
No, the use of sea salt or sea (or ocean) water with a chlorinator is not recommended, at the risk of creating hydrobromic acid, which is extremely toxic.
Yes, there is no risk bathing while the saltwater chlorinator is running because the naturally product hypochlorous acid dissolves immediatly in the water.
Yes, there is no incompatibility because the chemical chlorine is transformed in the contact of water into hypchlorous acid, disinfectant produced by a chlorinator.
Yes there is no problem. What you have to do is to ensure that all of the metal parts of the device are in titanium. Check that the installation has a hydraulic ground kit to evacuate the electrostatic charge from the pool and the pipes
There is no incompatibility between a treatment by saltwater chlorination and a pool heater. A single precaution: the metal parts in contact with the pool water must be strictly titanium.
Chlorine treatment is not incompatible with a saltwater chlorinator. Be careful to do not overpass 50ppm of stabilizer value. If you stop your device for a wintering, Visit our wintering section.
With the POOL-TECHNOLOGIE saltwater chlorinator, there is no risk for the performance of the device. Indeed, whatever the salt content is in the pool, the current supplying the cell is self-regulated and the production of chlorine will always be the same. Only a few devices are equipped with this feature.
Your water contains metals (iron, manganese) that follows the action of hypochlorous acid oxidizes and precipitates. Such cases are common when using a drill water rather than water network city. To avoid this, we can use a product inhibitor of metals.
Yes, if the salt level does not exceed 5g/L. Check the chlorine content of the pool beforehand. If residual chlorine is present, destroy it with a product such as Stop Chlorine.
The saltwater chlorination is compatible with any type of filtration: cartridge, sand, diatomite
The saltwater chlorination is compatible with any type of filtration: cartridge, sand, diatomite.
My swimming pool use saltwater chlorination technology. I have to install a cleaning robot with supercharger. Can I install any type of pump?
No, you have to implement a specific pump which is compatible with saltwater treatment.
There is no incompatibility with others treatments except with bromine and PHMB (Baquacil, Revasil,…). In that case, it is required to renew the totality of the water. Check, in others cases, the stabilizing rate of the water.
The saltwater treatment can be install on a pool which was treated with manual chlorine, ionisator, ozonator, UV, etc… However, there is an incompatibility with PHMB treatment (Baquacil, Revasil,…) In the case of swimming pool previously treated with this product (“biguandines”), it is necessary to empty completely the swimming pool to eliminate it.
Is not necessary to stabilize swimming pool water. However, if you add some stabilizer, be careful not to exceed the maximum dose (50ppm). The recommended dose should be between 20 and 30 ppm.
Your professional retailer can provide to you complete kits to measure the water parameters: pH, Chlorine, Tac, stabilizer. They come in the form of test strips.
The recommended value should be between 80 and 120 mg/L.
The recommended value is between 10° and 25° or 150 and 250 ppm. Note that TH modification must be done by a professional.
You can use a chlorine neutralizer made from sodium thiosulfate.
It must be placed after the filtration and any other equipment (e.g. heat pump) but before the electrolysis cell. In this way, it is protected from impurities carried by the water. If it is to be placed before, it must be mounted in a measuring chamber with a filter to protect it.
A diameter of 15 mm is acceptable. It is necessary that the probe can pass without forcing through this hole.
There is no incompatibility; the saltwater chlorination is compatible with any types of filtration.
There are strips test which allow to check simultaneously all of these parameters.
After having properly positioned and tightened the saddle, you can drill a hole with a diameter of 15mm.
Some bottom of the range devices are equipped with self-cleaning system on demand. All of the Pool Technologie saltwater chlorinator have an automatic self-cleaning, which increase the cell lifetime and eliminate all intervention of your part. An automatic reversal is the guarantee of a more sophisticated and reliable device.
Pool-Technologie offers you a large range of saltwater devices, from the good value for money saltwater chlorinator to the saltwater chlorinator with advanced functions. The constant is the quality of materials used for their manufacturing and the offered guarantee. You just need to choose the right model for your pool and your budget with your retailer or using our selection guide.
In order to avoid any oxidation of equipments (pump, saltwater chlorinator,…) it is imperative to put the can of pH correcting outside the technical room.
The cost of the replacement cells for saltwater chlorinator mainly depends on the titanium quality and the thickness of the coating. Their lifetime is thus related to their manufacturing quality and the performance of their electronics of controls. We can find compatible or generic cells cheaper on this website: www.kawana.fr
Setting the clock filter has to be primarily based on the temperature of the water. The presence of a shelter, an automatic cover, the power of filtration of the couple pump / filter also plays on determining the ideal time. You can free yourself from this constraint by replacing the mechanical clock by SIMPLEO ®, a device which adjusted the filtration to the temperature of the water.
The disadvantages most frequently mentioned on the forums dealing with the pool are:
A salty water,
An increase of pH linked with the creation of soda.
Water treated by saltwater chlorination is only slightly salty, in fact seven times less than sea water This dose of salt improves the comfort of bathing, according to the users equipped with this system. Even if saltwater chlorination increases the pH because of the creation of soda (very basic) during the creation of chlorine, the pH variation is not a real constraint. A pH regulation system is not necessary in a soft water but highly advisable in hard water treated with saltwater chlorination or any other treatment. (Chlorine…)
If your water is green or cloudy and you suspect that your chlorinator is malfunctioning, you can do the following checks before calling your professional or our after-sales service: Quick check of the cell:
– Immerse the cell in a basin that can hold it horizontally, fill the basin with salt water, (be careful to keep the connections out of the water) and check for bubbles and a strong smell of chlorine,
– Measure the voltage at the terminals of the cell and make sure that it conforms to the technical specifications of your device.
Checking the electronics box :
Launch the self-test procedure that equips the majority of our devices. If the measured current and voltage do not conform to the normal values, you can conclude that the electronic box or the cell has failed.
The saltwater chlorination treatment has no particular impact on the environment of the pool (paving, edge, vegetation …)
Even if the impact of salt water remains limited on pool equipment, it is advisable when installing this system on existing pool to ensure the compatibility of the filtration pump, heater, heat pump exchanger or any device containing a metal part in contact with the water. To avoid any risk of damage to metal parts in the pool (ladders, roller cover shafts, etc.) it is advisable to install a “POOL Terre kit” which will eliminate stray currents whatever their origin.
The installation must be done in a technical dry and properly ventilated, protected from rain, splashes, splashing water and UV. For clarification refer to the “facilities” in the user manual provided with each system. You will find here the appropriate installation diagram for your saltwater chlorinator.
You can install your cell vertically or in any other position on the AUTOSALT and POOLSQUAD devices. The vertical installation of the cell on the JUSTSALT and MINISALT models will make the low water alarm ineffective if installed lower than the cell. In this case, it is advisable to deactivate it by referring to the instructions in the manual, by contacting our professionals or by contacting our after-sales service at 0892 705 520 (0,34€ TTC/MN).
Salt electrolysis is an ecological solution for the treatment of swimming pool water. This system is a completely natural chemical reaction. The salt is put directly into the pool water. As soon as the filtration is on, the transformation cycle starts. As the water passes through the electrolysis cell, the salt is instantly transformed into sodium hypochlorite, i.e. natural chlorine. This natural chlorine destroys as well as its chemical counterpart all algae and germs present in the pool. Once its work is done, the hypochlorite is transformed back into salt for a perpetual cycle.
It is not necessary to remove the cell in winter even if the wintering is active (filtration of 1 to 2 hours / day) or passive (drain pipes). However, it is imperative that the cell is not powered with current during this period. The controller has to be off. However, some devices in our range (JUSTSALT + AUTOSALT, POOLSQUAD …) automatically perform this function by turning off when the temperature is low and started recovering when the temperature reached the set point.
Evaporation does not decrease the levels of salt, only the cleaning of filters by backwash and the splash will reduce the salt rate. To have a peace of mind throughout the season it is advisable to adjust the rate of salt at 5 kg/m3 in spring.
You can use the “find a retailer” on our website to find the closet retailer available.
Our devices are designed to work on salinities ranging from 2.5 g/L to 35g /L of salt. We recommend you to keep the salt level at 5 g/L. If you put more salt, it is not necessary to empty a part and to supplement it with fresh water, except if the salty taste bother you.
I leave my house 15 days, what precautions should I take with my swimming pool treated with saltwater chlorination ?
The advantage of salt electrolysis is that it provides continuous water treatment without you having to intervene regularly. It is simply advisable to check the salt level, the pH and the chlorine level before you leave. Also pay attention to the cleanliness of the filters, the turbidity of the water (cloudy water), and the filtration time.
Besides the fact that they are less expensive, the compatible cells Kawana are made with the latest technical improvements in the profession. In addition, the compatible cells are the only alternative when the manufacturer no longer exists or some original parts are no longer available. Nevertheless, Pool Technologie cells are designed and assembled in France with first choice materials, rigorously selected and controlled, which ensures their reliability and longevity guaranteed for several bathing seasons.
Inadequate TAC levels may be responsible for this phenomenon. If you are equipped with an automatic pH regulator, the acid injection should lower the pH and TAC of your water. In the case of a manual injection, we advise you to pour the previously diluted acid by slices of one liter at the nozzles. Systematically check the pH after each operation. The higher your TAC is, the more your pH will tend to increase rapidly. The quantity of acid necessary to decrease the TAC and pH levels is then more important. For example, you will need to inject more acid to go from pH 8.0 to 7.8 at a TAC of 280 than from 7.6 to 7.2 at a TAC of 80. The TAC of your pool water should normally be between 80 and 120 mg/L.
The saltwater chlorination is based on a natural physicochemical principle to disinfect your pool. Saltwater chlorinator creates a chlorine gas which is dissolved immediately into hypochlorous acid. The bubbles that you observe at the backflow are mostly hydrogen and oxygen gas. This reaction is harmless and it does not reduce the efficiency of the saltwater chlorinator under normal conditions of use. The higher the alkalinity, the faster the pH level will increase. The quantity of acid required to decrease the Alkalinity and pH level is thus more important.
It is imperative in case of passive wintering (drain pipes …):
- Remove the pH probe,
- Protect the bulb with the protection cap previously filled with tap water,
- Preferably stocked vertically so that the sensor bulb is still in contact with water,
- Dunk the bulb, in case of scale deposits, in a slightly acidic solution to dissolve the deposit.
- Keep the probe in distilled water or dry,
- Clean or dry the measurement bulb with a cloth
My pH is very unstable; it changes a lot as soon as there is a small quantity injection of the corrective agent.
This phenomenon may have several explanations. First of all, it is necessary to know the TAC, TH and pH levels of your water. The TAC or The methyl-orange alkalinity determines the level of carbonate and bicarbonate. This is one of 3 factors that you need to check in order to maintain the water balance of your swimming pool. The TH or Total Hardness determines the hardness of your water and thus the level of calcium. These 2 elements can be responsible for the pH instability. For our device, we recommend the following levels: TAC: between 10° and 20° or 100 to 200 ppm TH: between 15° and 25° or 150 to 250 ppm, pH: between 6,8 and 7,4
This may be due to water with a low TAC. You can add TAC+ to return to a normal TAC value. If the TAC still does not change, add more pH+ or wait for electrolysis to increase the pH gradually. Don’t forget to switch off the pH regulator while you rebalance your water.
Shock treatment may be recommended in the following cases: water filling, particularly dirty water (after a cyclone), green or cloudy pool, after an ear infection or collective angina of the children who frequent it, in case of doubt about its sanitary quality, as a preventive measure, once a year. Shock treatment is also recommended in the spring, when your pool is restarted. After a period of wintering, the water must be thoroughly cleaned before the first swim. If there is an imbalance and the chlorine is insufficient, you can also do a shock treatment.
Oversizing the device is not a problem because the production of chlorine is adjustable. A more powerful device will slow the use of the cell. To find the device that matches your needs you can contact us.
See “I want install saltwater chlorinator treatment for my swimming pool. Should I renew the water?” and “Is the saltwater treatment compatible with others treatments ?”
The causes may be diverse, please contact your professional
The causes may be diverse, however, saltwater chlorination is a technique based on low and continuous production of chlorine, it is not uncommon to see visually perfect water and measure a low level of chlorine. If this worries you, you can contact our customer service hotline at 0892 705 520 (0,34 € TTC / MN). We will study your situation.
The pH is a measure that indicates the balance base / acid in your swimming pool. This measurement can be performed manually using a “test kit” or automatically if you are equipped with a pH regulation system (pH Regul link). A high pH will increase the scale accumulation (calcium bicarbonate) on the walls of the pool, and in the processing equipment (filter, pump, chlorinator, heater …) and thus make the water cloudy. The effectiveness of chlorine is directly related to the pH value. For the same chlorine content, the treatment will be more effective if the pH is neutral (7.0) than it is basic (approximately 8.0). A low pH value will favour chemical attack on the parts in contact with water (liners, ladders, pump …) and make water irritating.
The REDOX or ORP indicates the amount of oxidant and therefore disinfectant present in the pool water. As with the pH, automatic systems analyse and regulate the disinfectant product, measuring its level with a probe. When the threshold is reached, the injection or production of the remanent (chlorine) product is stopped.
The saltwater chlorination is adapted to an indoor pool. Some of our advanced devices have an automatic chlorine regulation that allows to maintain the chlorine level at the set point. This technology works with a Redox probe or an amperometric probe.
See “Equipped with a saltwater chlorinator, I see bubbles at the backflow, is it normal?”
It is certainly a reaction to the self-cleaning of the cell. The reversal of polarity can remove the scale on titanium plates. The reversal time may be inadequate, the thickness of the scale is too important to be completely dissolves during the self-cleaning. Acid created by the device will dissolve the calcium of the coating. Then the water flow will carry the scale to the backflow. Reducing the reversal time coupled with acid injection of your regulator should gradually decrease the appearance of these plates.
With a cover with bubbles, the rate of chlorine increases in an important way. The cover plays a protective role preventing any outside pollution and decreases the destruction of the chlorine by UV. Needs in chlorine are thus reduced when the swimming pool is covered. Generally when your pool is covered, we recommend to lower by 60 to 80 % your usual production rate. On the contrary, when you remove the cover do not forget to rise again the production rate at its previous level.
We recommend using only a pH corrector for swimming pools purchased from your professional (pH-=acid corrector or ph+=basic corrector). If you use an acid corrector, use only pH-. The use of any other chemical product may cause irreversible damage to the device.
It is important to use the calibration solutions recommended in the operating instructions of the ph regulator.
The chlorine produced by an electrolyser is measured with a conventional test kit, either with the tabs or with the tablets (DPD1 method). Complete kits are available from your professional.
The minimum temperature is 15 C°. Most of our saltwater chlorinators have an automatic winterizing and pool opening features. However, there is no real maximum operating temperature for a saltwater chlorinator. We only notice that the chlorine produced degrades easily with high temperatures. That’s why we recommend oversizing the saltwater chlorinator in countries with hot climate.